I should make it clear that when I write about “Americans” historically I mean “white Americans.” Although generally the application of pepper to the diner’s food suggests hospitality — this is true only in certain circumstances. In the 1920s — and no doubt much later as well — black Americans often experienced unwanted pepper (and salt) in their food and drink in restaurants. Something about a well-peppered glass of milk or a plate lunch white with salt sent an unsubtle message: Don’t Come Back.
July 18, 2008...3:12 pm
A footnote on pepper and un-hospitality
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We eat in restaurants several times a week and yet know very little about their history. I plan to dip into my archive of research and images every so often to present a little tidbit that highlights aspects of our American restaurant culture. Let me know your thoughts.
